Bad PCV Valve Symptoms and Tips to Change PCV Valve

A hissing sound can be heard from the engine. Once this occurs, I quickly look at my vehicle. There might have been a leakage in the PCV valve hose. This is the culprit to that hissing sound. If I have to leave this for quite a long time, I believe that I will face a rough running, misfire, and a vacuum leakage. I get it repaired by an expert if I could no longer handle it.

My car is emitting an exhaust as always. But I once noticed smoke was coming out from it. I paid attention to it. The smoke is a sign that it is badly working. Something is wrong with it. I learned that the smoke could come in different colors. Each of these colors has its meaning. I suggest anyone look at the smoke. I recommend it be fixed as well.

White smoke coming out of it also resembles vapor. It is something not for me to worry about. It is just the same as normal condensation. But with thick and white smoke, I knew that this is the engine burning more of the coolant. This white and thick smoke is a red flag already. I might have a cracked engine block or a blown head gasket. Or, there is an underlying issue for this matter. If the smoke is not dissipating or continuing every time, I take the issue seriously.

Read next:  white smoke from exhaust when starting

Nevertheless, a gray smoke emitted from the exhaust is harder to diagnose. It might mean to say that my car is on the process of burning oil. I would check my oil levels. I also check my transmission fluid. I knew as well that the gray smoke is brought about by the transmission fluid burnt through the engine. This is brought about by a stuck PCV valve or poorly-performing turbocharger. The system is cutting down on the emissions. It recycles them to get back into the combustion chamber. However, a stuck valve normally creates pressure. This paves the way for oil leakage. Good thing, a PCV valve is already an inexpensive and simple fix.

Now with the blue smoke, it is a sign of burning oil in the engine. This takes place with worn-out piston rings. Or, the valve guide seals already get worn. Now, the oil begins to leak, wherein it must lubricate the engine. It is then burning fuel. Such a blue hue is thereby created. I would check my oil and get the levels correct. I also take my vehicle to a repair shop if I couldn’t handle it anymore.

Decided to change or replace the PCV valve. I first considered the type of car you have. 

Always kept in mind if the check engine light is already on. If it is also running rough, something is wrong with the PCV valve system.

I would like to make it clear to you about the Honda Accord PCV valve symptoms. They somehow include a faulty or stuck PCV valve or a clogged PCV. There also is an increase in fuel consumption. Usually, there is less MPG or lower fuel economy. The following symptoms are also experienced as oil leakage, stalling, backfiring, surging, difficulty starting, rough idle, and SES/CEL. I would suggest getting the service engine, or engine light checked.

I advise other owners to follow DIY instructions or tutorials, as these seem to be helpful. Follow the tips below when it comes to replacing the compatible aftermarket valve. 

• Utilize the tool to replace and to remove the valve. This tool is none other than a ten-millimeter socket having a one-fourth inch drive ratchet. Or better yet, a ten-millimeter wrench.
• Open the hood. Also, move to the driver or the right side of the engine bay.
• The PCV valve is found next to the right rear corner. This is next to the windshield and the cowl.
• Also, this is next to the right ignition electrical connector. It is also found below the right and rear corner of the plastic engine cover. The red plastic is the one exposed to the old valve.
• Loosen the silver metal bolt. Turn it in a counterclockwise direction. Use a ten-millimeter socket, including a one-fourth inch drive ratchet.
• After loosening up the bolt, it then should be spun. I would use my hand to avoid it from falling. It won’t as well be lost in this case.
• Set the bolt next to a safe place.
• Carefully pull the old valve out of the engine.
• Rotate the old valve in a backward and forward position. I would see the valve feeling stuck because of a stuck oil, sludge, carbon deposits, and grease.
• Inspect an old valve for any excessive sludge or damage..
• Check the grommet or gasket. If there is any damage, or something is missing, Just replace the valve cover gasket.
• Suggest replacing the valve if a car is driven at least thirty-thousand miles. That’s also if it has gone through lots of driving stops.
• Do not recommend replacing the valve. However, only after reaching about sixty-thousand to eighty-thousand miles.
• Spray it on with a MAF cleaner to clean the old valve. Also, sometimes am using an engine degreaser, carburetor cleaner, throttle body cleaner, and more that dissolves the oil, sludge, and grease.
• Dry off cleaning spray in excess before I re-install it.
• Install the cleaned or new valve. Slide it through the port next to the right edge of the engine.
• Line up the so-called bolt hole through the new valve. This comes with a bolt hole, too.
• Spin the bolt in several turns. (Follow a clockwise direction so that it won’t be cross-threaded).
• Tighten the bolt in a clockwise direction. Use a ten-millimeter socket or a ten-millimeter wrench with a one-fourth inch drive ratchet. Do it until it snugs closely to it.
• Do not tighten it much so that the bolt won’t crack the plastic valve housing.
• Double-check the bolt to make sure it is secure.
• Write down the changes did with the valve. This is for me to understand the service records of the vehicle.